There has been little in my life as frustrating as trying to become a proficient surfer. I have loved surfing over the last 8 years, but until recently always surfed during vacation time.
In August, when we moved to San Diego I thought that my surfing was going to improve greatly. I gave myself 6 months before I was pulling floaters, snapping the lip, and maybe even getting shacked (my apologies you surf illiterate types).
It has been 7 months I am not sure if I have improved one bit on the waves. I consider myself I solid athlete but surfing has stumped me time and time again.
The surf has been absolutely incredible this last week. Last Monday I witnessed 12-14 foot surf in Encinitas and since then it has been a solid 3-5 feet.
Today I venture out again, hoping to gain some experience and skill. Most likely I will just threaten to retire (can you retire from something you are no good at).
Wish me luck. And I will say that struggling constantly in the surf is still better than living land-locked.
Sincerely
Barney
4 comments:
Would you say that surfing is harder than hitting a backhand?
Nothing is harder than hitting a backhand. That is why I retired.
Breucker, I would have to say that you are stronger than most to admit that they are not the next all-pro surfer. Every new surfer has that stoke of getting out there, progressing from alkward paddler to actually ridding maybe even pumping down the line. This stoke is what brings all of us back time and again, it is what we share to everyone that spreads the joy and love of surfing. What is lost most often in the successful surf stories is the frustration and defeat of getting over that next hump in your progression of surfing. Most don't see it as a skill/sport, it's just for fun. I believe that like any sport you have to first practice (VERY easy when it comes to surfing, I mean who DOESN'T want to spend hours in the water?!) and second you need to be taught. Surfing is unique in sports in that the "court" changes constantly. In basketball you can go and practice the same shot or drive or move again and again with the court environment remaining static. In surfing, no two floaters are the same and even trying floaters on consecutive waves can be challenging if the wave doesn't want to cooperate. So my comment is more to recognize that it takes a lot for you to blog what you did and I love your last line, "I will say that struggling constantly in the surf is still better than living land-locked." Well said, well said.
E
Bro,
I want to join you in not retiring even though I am not good a surfing.
BTW - call me if you want to get out in the water!
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